Thursday, April 6, 2017

Tutwiler Mural and Map of SBW II's Grave

Juan Urbano Lopez (c.2007)
Cristen Craven Barnard is the artist responsible for the mural in downtown Tutwiler, where she lived at the time of its painting in the early 1996. She painted the map to the grave of Sonny Boy Williamson II. 

The Clarksdale Press Register, Aug 3, 1995.
The Clarksdale Press Register, Feb 3, 1996.
The Clarksdale Press Register, March 3, 1996.
The Clarksdale Press Register, May 29, 1996.
The Clarksdale Press Register, May 10, 1997.
Cristen Barnard began as an artist at age 4, and has grown to be a major illustrator of blues festival posters since her first in 1997 for the King Biscuit Festival. Since then, she has supplied the posters for six more King Biscuit Festivals. She has also supplied the art for the Notodden Blues Festival (four times), the Highway 61 Blues Festival (ten), Clarksdale’s Juke Joint Festival (seven), the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival (four), Haney’s Big House Ferriday Music Festival (three), the Mississippi Development Authority’s Road Trip tours (three), the Natchez Art and Soul Festival, Charleston’s Gateway to the Delta Festival, and the Pinetop Perkins Homecoming. In addition, Barnard designed the famous Railroad Park murals of W.C. Handy and Sonny Boy Williamson in downtown Tutwiler, as well as murals in Helena, Leland, Batesville, and Ruleville, and a huge hanging mural for Notodden’s 25th anniversary. She is perhaps best known for her painting of the legendary “Deal at the Crossroads.”

Sunday, April 2, 2017

The Headstone of Sonny Boy Williamson II: The Foundation of Blues Tourism Sits in Tutwiler

The Headstone of Sonny Boy Williamson II:
The Foundation of Blues Tourism Sits in Tutwiler 
By T. DeWayne Moore
Director of the Mt. Zion Memorial Fund

The back of Williamson's Grave
In the early 1900s, the only way across the Mississippi at Helena. Arkansas was a ferry run by Harold Jenkins, father of country singer Conway Twitty. The ferry closed at midnight "which was good in my favor," recalled Mrs. Z.L. "Momma" Hill (who ran the hotel until her death in 1997), when they were playing juke joints in Clarksdale or nearby towns.

"When they had to stay over, they stayed with me," she recalled. The musicians kept a piano on the premises, and the place rang with music.

Mrs. Hill was a good friend of Sonny Boy Williamson, a flamboyant harmonica player and singer who was featured on the popular live radio show King Biscuit Time on station KFFA in Helena. The show's sponsor, Interstate Grocery Co., manufactured Sonny Boy Corn Meal, featuring a drawing of Williamson playing his harmonica while sitting barefoot on an ear of corn.

During the 1960s, Williamson became popular with the rock generation. He played extensively in Europe and considered moving there. But, sensing that he was dying, he returned home a few months before his death in 1965.  Mrs. Hill recalls that Williamson stopped by one Sunday afternoon and found that she was taking a nap. "Wake her up," he demanded. "I want to play some music."

"He played in front of my window, on my porch," she recalls. "Oh he had a crowd that Sunday. It didn't take him long to draw a crowd. He went on, and a few days later he was dead."

Williamson's body was found in the second-floor apartment he kept over a business in downtown Helena. According to King Biscuit Time announcer Sonny Payne, the downstairs business in those days was the Dreamland Cafe. If that sounds like a touch worthy of Tennessee Williams, you'll be interested to know that the late playwright once lived in Clarksdale.

Whitfield Chapel (razed in the late 1990s)
© Juan Urbano Lopez

Williamson's grave is near Tutwiler, which is on U.S. 49, about 15 miles southeast of Clarksdale. No signs point the way, but it's not hard to find someone to direct you down a country road to the churchyard. Unlike in the 1980s, you can find the musician's grave.


Saturday, April 1, 2017

Shell Smith and the "Carroll County Blues" Get Recognition

The (Carroll County) Conservative, Sep 5, 1968.
Shellie "Shell" Walton Smith's obituary is short. It does not mention his brief career as a recording artist, or his role in the career of local blues artist John Hurt. A second obituary for Smith reveals the "long hard fight" for life that was ultimately lost, and the well-attended funeral of the guitar picker who accompanied fiddler William T. Narmour on several recordings, such as "Carroll County Blues." He was indeed much loved by a family that fought hard to hold on in the end. Shell Smith had played out his life true to the bone, picking his guitar with Willie Narmour at socials, picnics, contests and especially, the country dances in Carroll and in neighboring counties. 

Histories will tell you that Smith was poor, had little formal education and never learned to read music, but, among his own, he had solid validation and undying love. He would struggle to gain that validation from the rest of the world, and still does, but Mike Compton and Norman Blake are trying to validate his status to the larger musical world.  There is no concomitant effort at filling the silences about their true legacy to an increasingly uneducated populace, however, it's just an album of Narmour and Smith songs.  And it will most assuredly give rise to some questions about the composers.  If you aren't familiar with these stalwarts of the local community, the record will be a fine starting place.  The silences around it, however, will require some effort to fill.  By making his music more accessible to a new generation and garnering validation for the duo from around the globe, nevertheless, Compton and Blake may make the wish of one descendant come true:

“Smith was a `boomchang' guitar player, with a pick most likely, a flat sort of pick….What I would like is for people to always have access to Granddaddy’s music. It’s so hard to find copies of records that aren’t badly scratched. This access I’d like especially for my relatives, and for people who grew up in Carroll County and don’t have access anymore.”
Born to sharecroppers Irwin and Alice Smith on November 26, 1895, the young man that everyone called "Shell" came up dirt poor in rural Beat 2 of Carroll County, Mississippi.  He had married Lillian Kirby by the time he enlisted to serve in World War I, and he started working as a road contractor in the 1920s, physically transforming the promises of county politicians into the promise of a new age.

One element of this new age was the nationwide prohibition of alcohol, but the state of Mississippi had already been dry since 1908.  Carroll County was not unique in that every hollow and valley had a whisky still.  It was through his penchant for moonshine that Shell Smith first became the acquaintance of John Hurt.  In fact, Smith fully owns half the credit for John Hurt's first brush with the record industry, recommending their neighbor when talent scouts asked if they knew any good black guitarists. Hurt, who became internationally known after a blues historian named Tom Hoskins "rediscovered" him in 1963, could not return the favor for either man. Narmour suffered a minor stroke in the mid-1950s, and a massive stroke killed him March 24, 1961. Hoskins tracked down guitarist Shell Smith, who had been working as a janitor at nearby Valley High School, a country school that closed in the late 1960s. But it was too late for Smith too. He died quietly on August 28, 1968. His grave is marked by a respectable headstone in Moore's Memorial Cemetery behind Pisgah church.
c. Dana Brown Skipworth



The (Carroll County)
Conservative, Sep 12, 1968.

The Grave of Shell Smith

The (Carroll County) Conservative, Sep 5, 1968.
Shellie "Shell" Walton Smith's obituary is short. It does not mention his brief career as a recording artist, or his role in the careers of local blues artist John Hurt. A second obituary for Smith reveals the "long hard fight" for life that was ultimately lost, and the well-attended funeral of the guitar picker who accompanied fiddler William T. Narmour on several recordings, such as "Carroll County Blues." He was indeed much loved by a family that fought hard to hold in the end. Shell Smith had played out his life true to the bone, picking his guitar with Willie Narmour at socials, picnics, contests and especially, the country dances in Carroll and in neighboring counties. He had little formal education and never learned to read music, but, among his own, he had solid validation and undying love. He would struggle to gain that validation from the rest of the world, but Mike Compton and Norman Blake are validating his status in the musical world, paying homage by recording an album of Narmour and Smith tunes. By making his music more accessible to a new generation and garnering validation for the duo from around the globe, Compton and Blake are also helping to make the wishes of their descendants come true:
“Smith was a `boomchang' guitar player, with a pick most likely, a flat sort of pick….What I would like is for people to always have access to Granddaddy’s music. It’s so hard to find copies of records that aren’t badly scratched. This access I’d like especially for my relatives, and for people who grew up in Carroll County and don’t have access anymore.”
Born to sharecroppers Irwin and Alice Smith on November 26, 1895, the young man that everyone called "Shell" came up dirt poor in rural Beat 2 of Carroll County, Mississippi. 
He had married Lillian Kirby by the time he enlisted to serve in World War I, and he started working as a road contractor in the 1920s, physically transforming the promises of county politicians into the promise of a new age.

One element of this new age was the nationwide prohibition of alcohol, but the state of Mississippi had already been dry since 1908.  Carroll County was not unique in that every hollow and valley had a whisky still.  It was through his penchant for moonshine that Shell Smith first became the acquaintance of John Hurt.  In fact, Smith fully owns half the credit for John Hurt's first brush with the record industry, recommending their neighbor when talent scouts asked if they knew any good black guitarists. Hurt, who became internationally known after a blues historian named Tom Hoskins "rediscovered" him in 1963, could not return the favor for either man. Narmour suffered a minor stroke in the mid-1950s, and a massive stroke killed him March 24, 1961. Hoskins tracked down guitarist Shell Smith, who had been working as a janitor at nearby Valley High School, a country school that closed in the late 1960s. But it was too late for Smith too. He died quietly on August 28, 1968. His grave is marked by a respectable headstone in Moore's Memorial Cemetery behind Pisgah church.



c. Dana Brown Skipworth



The (Carroll County)
Conservative, Sep 12, 1968.